Reptile & Amphibian Hobbyist's Herp Care Series

Fire Salamander

Salamandra salamandra (Li nnaeus, 1758)

Family: Salamandridae, the newts. Although they are called salamanders, Fire Salamanders are actually newts.

Care Difficulty: Moderate. If keeping these animals cool is not a problem, they can be considered easy.

Size: Maximum lengths of just over a foot have been reported. Eight to ten inches can be considered average; size varies greatly by population and subspecies.

Description: These are large, chunky newts with large, protruding eyes. They have rather flattened heads with short, somewhat rounded snouts. Perhaps a third of their body length is their tail, which is generally round in cross-section. Although the legs are short and fat, they are strong. The body of a Fire Salamander is more or less cylindrical. and from 9 to 14 costal grooves are present. Their skin is shiny in appearance and rubbery to the touch.

Most Fire Salamanders bear visible parotoid glands behind each eye. They are oval and extend to the back of the skull. The surface of the glands is dotted with pores. Two more rows of pores run down the back on either side of the spine. The pores release noxious defensive chemicals when the salamander is threatened. These chemicals are in the form of a milky fluid. The salamanders are capable of squirting this fluid out of the pores in their backs up to distances of over a foot. A blast of this irritating spray will deter most predators. Some humans will develop skin irritations from handling ~ Fire Salamanders, but most keepers can handle them gently with no reaction and no spraying by the salamander. Other than some irritation. the secretions are not dangerous.

Fire Salamanders are brightly colored and attractive salamanders. The basic color is black with bright to pale yellow markings. Sometimes the markings may be almost white, orange, or red. These spots form irregular blotches on the dorsal surface of the animal. In some populations, they can form a pair of irregular stripes from the eyes down the back, joining on the tail. The degree of blotching is variable, with some animals being nearly solid black and some being nearly solid yellow. Many subspecies exist, but they are difficult for the hobbyist to tell apart. Salamandra s. salamandra and S. s. terrestris are the two most often seen in the hobby. Salamandra s. terrestris tends to have the yellow blotches fused into a pair of stripes.

Range: Fire Salamanders have a scattered and discontinuous range over large areas of Europe, northern Africa, and western Asia. Most in the hobby seem to come from Germany, but other countries within their range export them and several subspecies are bred by European hobbyists.

Habits: Like most salamanders, Fire Sallies are nocturnal and rarely venture out on cloudy or rainy days. They actively hunt invertebrates and small vertebrates on the forest floor. Fires will eat anything small enough to fit in their mouths. They have an excellent sense of smell and will consume carrion. During the day, they live in shallow burrows tunneled into the moist humus or under stones, logs, or other debris. While most Fire Salamanders are primarily terrestrial, two subspecies are semi-aquatic. Fire Salamanders give birth to from 20 to 75 live babies over the course of several days. In most cases the larva are aquatic for two to four months, but some populations give birth to fully terrestrial neonates. This species hibernates underground during the winter and during hot and dry spells.

Diet: In captivity, Fire Salamanders fare well on foods typically fed to frogs and other insectivorous herps They take the commonly available crickets, mealworms, waxworms, and roaches. Additionally, they will eat small pinky mice and fish (although the terrestrial forms will not enter the water to get them). Fires seem to have a preference for earthworms and snails. Most other invertebrates will be accepted, and these salamanders also will eat amphibians, reptiles, and birds.

All feeder insects must be fed a highly nutritious diet before being fed to the salamander. Dusting the feeders with a vitamin/mineral/calcium supplement two or three times monthly is a good idea. These salamanders have a low metabolism. To prevent them from becoming obese, feed Fire Salamanders twice weekly and monitor their weight. Some will need more food than this to maintain weight, while others will get fat with this much food.

Temperature/Humidity: The biggest problem Fire Salamanders present to the keeper is how to prevent them from overheating. These animals are not at all heat-tolerant, preferring temperatures in 60 to 65F range. Temperatures much above 75F should be avoided. The heat tolerance of Fire Salamanders varies, probably depending on the locality of origin. When keeping these newts, be aware of the signs of heat stress: frantic pacing of the cage, frequent attempts to climb the walls, and/or never leaving the water bowl. If your Fire Salamander exhibits any of these behaviors, you must cool it off During the summer, air conditioning will be necessary, unless you choose to hibernate them in summer instead of winter. Hibernating Fire Salamanders will also prepare them for breeding.

Hibernating Fire Salamanders is not difficult. Only animals in good health and weight should be hibernated. Before hibernation, withhold food for 10 to 14 days. After this, cool your sallies down slowly to a low of 40 to 45F, taking several days to reach these temperatures. Keepers generally use a small refrigerator for this purpose. During hibernation. the substrate should be several inches of damp sphagnum moss. The hibernation period can last as long as four months; afterward slowly warm them back up to normal keeping temperatures. Fire Salamanders prefer a humid vivarium.

Housing: Fire Salamanders do not demand a lot of space. A pair or even a trio can live comfortably in a 15-gallon aquarium (although there are reports of territorial behavior). A secure lid is essential, as they can climb up the corners of an aquarium.

A deep substrate that holds moisture and allows burrowing is necessary. Many types are satisfactory including pulped wood, reptile barks, potting soil (normally mixed with sand), and sphagnum moss. For ease of cleaning, several layers of damp paper towels can be used. The substrate should be kept damp but not soggy. Include some hiding areas such as cork bark, coconut shells, or pieces of plant pots. There should be at least one hiding place for each animal in the enclosure.

Fire Salamanders will soak frequently, but they are poor swimmers. Use a shallow water bowl that the animals can climb in and out of easily. Frequent water changing is recommended, as is using dechlorinated water.

Temperament: Fire Salamanders generally are docile and do not seem to mind occasional handling.

Other Notes: If you prove to be sensitive to the secretions of your Fire Salamanders, wearing latex gloves will prevent any rashes or other reactions. It is essential to wash your hands after handling these animals or their cage fixtures, as rubbing the eyes or mouth will cause irritation. Young children should not be allowed to handle Fire Salamanders.

Pet Suitability: Moderate the strict temperature requirements and irritating skin secretions prevent Fire Salamanders from being recommendable to all herp keepers.

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